Cold weather is the stylist’s dream come true—there are so many opportunities for layering and using textures and patterns. And no piece in your wardrobe better exemplifies this than the flannel shirt. It adds depth to any outfit, making a perfect mid layer or outer layer while keeping you cozy and comfortable. And yes, flannel is a wonderful gender-neutral option that can be worn by just about anyone.
If you’re like most people, you probably associate this soft woven cotton fabric with patterns like plaid or tartan. Traditionally, flannel shirts in generations past were worn by farmers and lumberjacks for their durability and warmth. They became more common among the general population through the second half of the 20th century, until they exploded in popularity within youth counterculture and grunge fashion during the ’90s (thanks in large part to the bands Nirvana and Pearl Jam).
The good news is that flannel today can fit many different aesthetics. If you want to look like you’re about to spend the weekend in a rustic ski lodge or rock out with your bandmates in the garage, or if you want to look crisp and clean for a winter evening out in the city, you can make flannel work for these occasions. It’s all a matter of how you wear it.
Here’s what you need to know if you’re incorporating flannel into your winter wardrobe:
Keep it neat (if that’s the goal). Because flannel has a naturally rustic look to it (and its long tradition of being worn as workwear or part of the grunge aesthetic) you want a high-quality piece if you plan to dress it up. Choose one that fits well and is neatly pressed. Anything too big or wrinkled will end up looking sloppy.
Commit to being edgy. Maybe you like the alternative nature of flannel—you want to look a little edgy! That’s great. You just need to be deliberate in your choice. Pair a flannel with a band T-shirt for a vintage look. Go for a shirt that’s two or three sizes too big that can be worn as a jacket over a hooded sweatshirt.
Find complementary textures. For maximum effect, find at least two different warm textures you can incorporate into your outfit with your flannel, such as a cable-knit cardigan, wide corduroy pants, a thick wool scarf, or distressed leather boots.
Match it with the right colors. You want your flannel to be the focal point of your outfit, so wear it with other colors that will complement it and make it pop. Experiment with different color combinations of your own preference, but some tried-and-true options you can never go wrong with are red or brown flannel with dark jeans, gray flannel with khaki pants, or black flannel with gray pants.
Take care of your flannel. Because flannel is a woven cotton, it can easily shrink or lose its shape if laundered incorrectly. Wash in cold water and either hang it to air dry or run it through your dryer on a no-heat setting. Using a cup of white vinegar in addition to your regular detergent will help prevent fading and pilling.